Day Six
By Rt. Rev. Peter Hill
Well it’s the last day, with only 10 miles to go to Santiago da Compostela! Most pilgrims set off early to try and make the 12noon Mass at Santiago Cathedral, which finishes with the famous swinging of a large Thurible through 180 degrees as it smokes with incense symbolising the prayer of the pilgrims.
The Camino into Santiago was short but once again beautiful, meandering through woodland paths and small agricultural villages. We almost missed a way marker as we left Sigueiro, but as had happened previously a kindly woman hailed us and pointed back 15 metres to where the Churchwarden had missed the turn. I of course had been deep in prayerful contemplation and hade left directional responsibilities with him! You simply can’t get the staff!
Further out, we said our prayers on the move, led by the church warden on this occasion. It had become our preference to pray on the go. It simply felt more apt. Mercifully no more snakes were seen and I was not required to ‘cut some shapes’ in avoidance.
As we approached Santiago we once again walked past some ancient Galician houses and a traditional corn storehouse raised up off the ground (see photo) to prevent vermin consuming the corn as it dried out. As we got close to the Cathedral our pace definitely quickened in anticipation and the number of pilgrims converging on this ancient town increased and bunched up.
A mile from the end two things in particular happened which sum up the joy of the Camino. Firstly, a man called us into his delightful little wayside church for a ‘sello’, one of the individualised ink stamps that adds with others to prove you have completed the whole length of the Camino and entitles you to a “Compostella”, the certificate in Latin that affirms you as a true Perigrino, They are available mainly at churches, bars and cafes along the Way.
Secondly, a number of pilgrims who we had met along the way were converging around the same time and hailed us with final ‘Buen Caminos’’, including two of our Irish friends who had set ff before us but were now having their last roadside white wine before the cathedral.
Before leaving Newark we had arranged that our wives would meet as on the steps up to the Cathedral and we had texted them an ETA. We arrived, tired but exhilarated, in the massive Cathedral Square and looked around at the foot of the steps. Ellen and Linda were nowhere to be found amongst the mass of pilgrims. Where’s a wife when you need one!
In fact, the superbly sculpted ancient Cathedral facades are approached by multiple sets of steps and they were on the other side in a small square near the official entrance. After warm hugs of congratulation we entered the cathedral just after the end of the Mass. The interior provided a welcome cool space on a hot sunny afternoon.
Prayers and photos brought our Camino Ingles Pilgrimage to a close, but it will never be forgotten. As in life we have been reminded that the journey is as important as the destination.
Postscript.
We remained in Santiago for another day and were able to receive our Compostellos and attend the Pilgrim Mass. It was truly amazing to be amongst pilgrims from so many nations. Sharing the Sacrament of Jesus’ love and The Peace was quite a spiritually powerful and for some an emotional experience. And we prayed as the mighty Thurible swung high, spreading the fragrant incense throughout the cathedral. (See the video).
As one of our daily prayers has it:
We go with God
We go with one another
In the name of Christ. Amen.
Such was the Camino and such is life.