Day Two

By Rev. Peter Hill

Having said our prayers on the riverside, we donned our backpacks and reluctantly left our quirky but beautiful rustic hotel in Neda on the Ferrol Estuary. Over breakfast we got into conversation with four elderly Australian women and a Russian couple. Like us, all were pilgrims (Peregrinos) on the way to Santiago de Compostela. You meet the whole world on the Camino.

We accompanied the Australians to the Camino continuation point away from the river. There we left them with a “Buen Camino” and looked forward to seeing them in Pontedeume, our next destination.

From there we climbed up on country lanes with blue sky above and terrific views back on Ferrol and the estuary. Two miles further on the Churchwarden was engaging me in such an engaging intellectual  conversation for once, that we missed a Camino way mark and lost our way. Suddenly a car pulled up alongside us and a local man emerged telling us in improvised English and vigorous hand signals that we were off the Camino and directed us back on track. Such a delight to be truly helped.

Climbing up through a Eucalyptus Forest we were pleased to find an unmanned wayside hospitality spot where for a “donatio” we were able to get cold drinks out of an ice box and small pastries to  renew our energies, as well as  large pilgrim scallop shells to decorate our back packs. Hospitality, often anonymous, abounds on the Camino. 

Further on we came to a junction with a choice of way markers.  The Churchwarden immediately chose the shorter but more dangerous path and I obediently followed on in much trepidation. Having avoided lurking dragons, we rejoiced in reaching the night’s destination in another beautiful riverside town: Pontedeume.

On a later exploratory walk we were pleased to see our Australian friends cross ancient bridge into town and we reluctantly helped them celebrate their day’s walk with beers all round on the quayside. It’s such a hard life on the Camino!